Eastern Germany (inc. Berlin) 2024

(Page 5 of 7 / Links to other pages at end of this page)

Day 5 – Berlin

Berlin, the capital of Germany, is a city that seamlessly blends a rich historical heritage with a vibrant modern culture. Known for its pivotal role in world history, Berlin offers a plethora of attractions that cater to all interests. From iconic landmarks to bustling squares, it is a city that never ceases to amaze.

Above: The Brandenburg Gate, Probably Berlin's most famous landmark. It was a symbol of Berlin and German division during the Cold War and is now a national symbol of peace and unity.

Day 5 was a full day in Berlin, taking the S-Bahn metro from the accommodation in and out of the city. The author of this webpage was mainly interested in looking at some of the areas of the centre of the old East Berlin to see how they had changed since two visits to the city in the 1990s and so with only one day available, took the S-Bahn to Alexanderplatz (a large public square and transport hub in the central Mitte district), then a roughly circular walk down Karl-Liebknecht-Straße and Unter den Linden to the Brandenburg Gate, continuing down to Potsdamer Platz and then over to the site of the old Checkpoint Charlie, ending the day at the DDR Museum before returning back to the accommodation again via the S-Bahn; A brief history of the city follows, continuing the page with a selection of photos and descriptive text of the day’s highlights:

A Very Brief History of Berlin

Berlin’s history is as dynamic as the city itself. Founded in the 13th century, Berlin has been at the heart of many significant historical events. It became the capital of the Kingdom of Prussia, the German Empire, the Weimar Republic, and the Third Reich. The city was heavily bombed during World War II and later became a focal point of the Cold War, symbolized by the Berlin Wall that divided East and West Berlin from 1961 to 1989.

Above: A map on display at the DDR Museum shows how the city was divided; Berlin was divided from the end of World War II in 1945 until the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989. The division of Berlin began with the Potsdam Agreement, where the victorious Allies partitioned the city into four sectors. This division became physically manifest in the form of the Berlin Wall starting on August 13, 1961, which stood as a symbol of the Cold War and separated East and West Berlin. The Wall fell on November 9, 1989, leading to the reunification of Germany the following year.

The fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 marked the beginning of a new era for Berlin, leading to the reunification of Germany. Today, the city is a thriving metropolis known for its diverse culture, innovative arts scene, and significant historical sites.

Main Tourist Sights Seen During the Visit

Alexanderplatz

Alexanderplatz is one of Berlin’s most famous squares and a major transport hub. It is home to the iconic TV Tower (Fernsehturm), which offers panoramic views of the city from its observation deck. The square is also surrounded by shops, restaurants, and historical buildings, making it a bustling centre of activity.

Karl-Liebknecht-Straße

Karl-Liebknecht-Straße is a significant thoroughfare in the central Mitte district of Berlin, named after Karl Liebknecht, a founder of the Communist Party of Germany. This street has a rich history, dating back to medieval times, and has undergone various transformations over the centuries.

Today, Karl-Liebknecht-Straße stretches from Berlin Cathedral at the Liebknecht Bridge across the Spree River to the Prenzlauer Allee at the northeast (this walk is heading towards the cathedral), encompassing a mix of historic and modern architecture. A significant route through the heart of the city, it’s a vibrant part of Berlin that reflects the capital’s dynamic history and contemporary culture. The road is essentially the continuation of Unter den Linden after it reaches the cathedral on Museum Island (see lower down the page).

Marienkirche (St. Mary’s Church)

St. Mary’s Church, known as the Marienkirche (top, above), is one of the oldest churches in Berlin. Located on Karl-Liebknecht-Straße near Alexanderplatz, it dates back to the 13th century. The church is notable for its striking red brick architecture, which was restored after significant damage during World War II.
Also shown above, in the second photo, is The Neptune Fountain (Neptunbrunnen). Designed by Reinhold Begas and completed in 1891, the fountain features the Roman god Neptune at its centre, holding a trident. Surrounding Neptune are four female figures, each representing one of the major rivers of Prussia at the time: the Elbe, Rhine, Vistula, and Oder. The fountain was originally situated at Schlossplatz but was moved to its current location in 1969.

(On a side-note, it was at this point at 11am, the warning system all over Germany underwent a test, making all mobile phones ring like crazy (including mine in the middle of taking a photo). The test included other warnings, such as sirens and radio programmes being interrupted. Not being aware of this, it came as a bit of a surprise, especially when in the middle of a busy city where most people were also carrying a mobile!)

The Luther Monument (Lutherdenkmal)

The Luther Monument (above) is a significant tribute to Martin Luther, the key figure of the Protestant Reformation. This statue is located in front of the Marienkirche (St. Mary’s Church) in Marienkirchplatz. Erected in 1895, it was designed by sculptor Paul Otto and Robert Toberentz. The statue stands at an impressive height and depicts Luther holding a Bible in his left hand while raising his right hand, symbolizing his role in advocating for religious freedom and reform.

The Rotes Rathaus (Red City Hall)

Taking a slight detour here off Karl-Liebknecht-Straße across Marienkirchplatz, it is possible to take a look at the Rotes Rathaus (shown above). This building is a significant city landmark. Constructed between 1861 and 1869 in the Renaissance Revival style, it serves as the seat of the governing mayor and the Berlin Senate. The building's distinctive red clinker brick façade gives it its name and makes it a notable architectural feature in the Mitte district, near Alexanderplatz. Heavily damaged during World War II, it was meticulously restored to its original design, symbolizing Berlin's rich history and resilience.

Museum Island

Reaching the southwestern end of Karl-Liebknecht-Straße, we cross over one half of the River Spree onto Museum Island. Located in the heart of Berlin, Museum Island is a UNESCO World Heritage site that houses five world-renowned museums. These include the Pergamon Museum, the Altes Museum, and the Neues Museum, each offering a treasure trove of art and artifacts from different periods and cultures.

Berlin Cathedral (Berliner Dom)

The Berliner Dom, or Berlin Cathedral (above), is a stunning landmark located on Museum Island in the heart of Berlin. This monumental Protestant church is known for its impressive Neo-Renaissance architecture and serves as the Evangelical Supreme Parish and Collegiate Church. The cathedral, completed in 1905, features a magnificent dome that rises nearly 100 meters high, offering breathtaking views of the city. The interior is richly decorated and includes the Hohenzollern family crypt, which houses the remains of many members of this prominent German dynasty. The Berliner Dom is not only a place of worship but also a cultural venue, hosting concerts, art exhibitions, and other events. It’s a must-visit for anyone interested in history, architecture, or simply looking to enjoy a serene and beautiful space in Berlin.

The Altes Museum

The Altes Museum in Berlin is a neoclassical marvel, designed by the renowned architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel. As one of the most significant works of architecture from the Neoclassical era, it stands proudly on Museum Island. The museum's collection is a treasure trove of antiquities, showcasing a vast array of classical artifacts, including the famous busts of Roman figures such as Julius Caesar and Cleopatra. With its rich history and cultural significance, the Altes Museum offers a window into the ancient worlds of the Greeks, Etruscans, and Romans, inviting visitors to step back in time and explore the origins of Western civilization.

Above: Continuing the walk over the other half of the River Spree, leaving Museum Island and then heading down Unter den Linden.

Unter den Linden

“Unter den Linden” (above) translates to “Under the Linden Trees”. This grand boulevard stretches from the Brandenburg Gate to the Berlin Cathedral (we are walking in the opposite direction). Still to this day lined with linden trees, Unter den Linden is a picturesque avenue that features numerous historical buildings. It’s a perfect place for a leisurely stroll while soaking in Berlin’s rich history.

The Neue Wache

The Neue Wache (above), located near Museum Island on Unter den Linden, is a significant monument with a rich history. Originally constructed between 1816 and 1818 by the renowned architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel, it served as a guardhouse for the Royal Palace and a memorial to the Liberation Wars. Today, it stands as the Central Memorial of the Federal Republic of Germany for the Victims of War and Tyranny, housing the poignant sculpture 'Mother with her Dead Son' by Käthe Kollwitz, which powerfully conveys the suffering caused by war and oppression. The building's neoclassical architecture and its role as a place of remembrance make it a poignant landmark in Berlin's cityscape.

Berlin State Opera

The Berlin State Opera, also known as the Staatsoper Unter den Linden, is one of the most prestigious opera houses in the world. Located on the historic Unter den Linden boulevard, it was established in 1742, making it Germany’s oldest opera house. The building itself is an architectural gem, combining classical and modern elements after extensive renovations. The opera house hosts a wide range of performances, including operas, ballets, and concerts by the Staatskapelle Berlin, its resident orchestra.

Humboldt University of Berlin

Humboldt University of Berlin, established in 1810, is a prestigious institution that embodies the spirit of academic freedom and research excellence. With a history of fostering critical thinking and innovation, it has been influential in shaping modern higher education. The university's commitment to interdisciplinary research and education is evident in its wide range of programmes and its status as part of the German Universities Excellence Initiative. Its notable alumni and faculty include numerous Nobel laureates and distinguished scholars who have made significant contributions to various fields. As a centre of learning and research, Humboldt University continues to contribute to societal progress and intellectual discourse.

Memorial to May 10, 1933 Nazi Book Burning

The Memorial to the May 10, 1933, Nazi book burning, known as "The Empty Library," is a poignant reminder of the censorship and cultural destruction that took place during the rise of the Nazi regime. Created by Israeli artist Micha Ullman, the memorial is set into the cobblestones of Bebelplatz in Berlin, featuring a glass plate looking down into a room of empty bookshelves, symbolizing the absence of the burned books. This powerful work serves as a testament to the importance of free thought and the dangers of censorship.

Volkswagen Group Forum

After taking a coffee break along Unter den Linden, we took an unplanned peek inside the Volkswagen Group Forum. Located on the corner of Unter den Linden and Friedrichstraße, it is open daily from 10am to 7pm and admission is free. This modern space showcases the innovation and history of the Volkswagen Group. Exhibits include legendary vehicles like the Beetle, the VW Bus, the Porsche 911, the Lamborghini Countach, and the Golf, as well as exhibits on icons of modernity that have shaped mobility, design, architecture, and art from the 1950s to the present day. Photography is not permitted with some of the displays, although a selection of objects on show can be seen in the thumbnail gallery below (click on an image to enlarge):

Brandenburg Gate

The Brandenburg Gate (above), or Brandenburger Tor in German, is an iconic 18th-century neoclassical monument. It was commissioned by King Frederick William II of Prussia and designed by Carl Gotthard Langhans. Completed in 1791, it stands at the western end of Unter den Linden, at the junction with Ebertstraße.

The gate has witnessed many significant historical events. During the Cold War, it was situated in no man’s land just behind the Berlin Wall, symbolizing the division of East and West Berlin. After the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989, the Brandenburg Gate became a symbol of German reunification and European unity. The gate is topped with a quadriga, a chariot drawn by four horses, driven by Victoria, the Roman goddess of victory. This sculpture was once taken to Paris by Napoleon in 1806 but was returned to Berlin after his defeat.

Reichstag Building

Located a short walk from the Brandenburg Gate is the Reichstag Building (shown above), a historic edifice which houses the Bundestag, the lower house of Germany’s parliament. Located at Platz der Republik, it was originally constructed between 1884 and 1894 following designs by architect Paul Wallot. The building has a tumultuous history. It was severely damaged by fire in 1933, an event that played a crucial role in the rise of the Nazi regime. During World War II, it suffered further damage and was left in ruins until it was partially restored in the 1960s. After the reunification of Germany, the Reichstag underwent a significant renovation led by architect Norman Foster, completed in 1999. One of the most striking features of the Reichstag is Foster’s modern glass dome, which offers a 360-degree view of the surrounding Berlin cityscape as well as an insight into the workings of the German government. This dome symbolizes transparency in government and is a popular tourist attraction. Visitors can take a guided tour to learn more about its history and significance.

Memorial to the Sinti and Roma Victims of National Socialism

A memorial was erected south of the Reichstag in October 2012 in order to commemorate the Sinti and Roma murdered under National Socialist rule during the Genocide, or Porajmos. The memorial honours the 220,000 to 500,000 Sinti and Roma people killed during the Holocaust. Located in the Tiergarten (Berlin’s huge park in the city centre), it features a circular pool with a triangular stone at its centre, symbolizing the badges worn by concentration camp prisoners. A fresh flower is placed on the stone daily, and a poem by Roma poet Santino Spinelli is inscribed around the pool. The memorial was designed by Dani Karavan.

Holocaust Memorial

The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe, commonly known as the Holocaust Memorial, is a poignant tribute located about 5 minutes’ walk south from the Brandenburg Gate. Designed by architect Peter Eisenman, it features 2,711 concrete slabs or “stelae” arranged in a grid pattern over a 1.9-hectare site. A central and significant landmark in Berlin, the stelae vary in height, creating an undulating field that visitors can walk through, evoking a sense of disorientation and reflection. The Place of Information, located in the southeast corner of the field of stelae holds the names of approximately 3 million Jewish Holocaust victims, providing a deeper historical context. The Holocaust Memorial is truly a powerful reminder of the atrocities committed during the Holocaust and is a place for reflection and remembrance. In some respects, it would have been better to visit here during a time when few other people were around as the other visitors and ambient city noised felt like a distraction from the deeper meaning of the monument.

Potsdamer Platz

The walk continued via Potsdamer Platz, a vibrant public square and traffic intersection in the heart of the city. It has a rich history, evolving from a bustling hub in the early 20th century to a desolate area during the Cold War when the Berlin Wall bisected it. Since German reunification, it has undergone significant redevelopment and is now a lively area filled with modern architecture, shopping centres, restaurants, and entertainment venues. A stop for food (and to the Lego Store) in the nearby Mall of Berlin, before heading off to another of the city’s famous sites, namely Checkpoint Charlie.

Checkpoint Charlie

Checkpoint Charlie was one of the most famous crossing points between East and West Berlin during the Cold War. Established in 1961, it became a symbol of the division between the communist East and the democratic West. Located on Friedrichstraße, it was the only crossing point where Allied forces and foreigners could pass between the two sides. The checkpoint witnessed several significant events, including a standoff between American and Soviet tanks in October 1961. Today, it serves as a popular tourist attraction, with a replica of the guardhouse and a museum detailing its history and the broader context of the Berlin Wall.

DDR Museum

As mentioned near the start of this page, the day was concluded with a visit to the DDR Museum before returning back to the accommodation (separate from travel companions who decided on the Stasi Museum, located in the Lichtenberg locality of the city).

Above: Entrance to the DDR museum on the opposite bank of the River Spree from Museum Island, just east of the cathedral.

The DDR Museum in Berlin offers an immersive experience into everyday life in the former East Germany (GDR or DDR in German). Located at Karl-Liebknecht-Str. 1, near Museum Island and opposite Berlin Cathedral, the museum is open daily from 9am to 9pm (check beforehand if planning a visit. The museum is highly interactive, allowing visitors to engage with exhibits that cover various aspects of life in the GDR, including a fully furnished DDR flat, the workings of the state and the Stasi, and much more. It’s a great place to learn about the history and culture of East Germany in a hands-on way. Highlights include a Trabant car which visitor can sit in and “drive” using a simulator, and a mock-up East Berlin apartment from the communist era which includes everything from a living room to kitchen cupboards containing authentic food packaging. A selection of photographs taken from inside the museum are shown in the thumbnail gallery below (click on an image to enlarge):

Conclusion

Berlin is a city that offers a rich tapestry of history, culture, and modern attractions. Whether you’re exploring its iconic landmarks, delving into its complex past, or enjoying its vibrant arts scene, Berlin promises an unforgettable experience. This webpage covered a visit following up from two visits in the 1990s and was only a brief look at what was mostly the former East Berlin. Plenty more time could have been spent here, including a follow-up visit to areas which were once part of West Berlin.

Above: Museumsinsel (Museum Island) S-Bahn Metro Station

Next Page (Potsdam and Nietzsche-Haus, Naumburg)

Previous Page (Rostock)
Introduction and Wünsdorf
Peenemünde and Polish Border on Baltic Sea
Rügen Island: Prora and Cape Arkona
Colditz Castle and End Note to the Trip

 

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