Eastern Germany (inc. Berlin) 2024
(Page 3 of 7 / Links to other pages at end of this page)
Day 3 – Rügen Island: Prora and Cape Arkona
On day three, we took a look around a couple of the many sites on Rügen Island, namely the resort of Prora and the scenic Cape Arkona. On returning to the accommodation, this would be our last night staying on the island, before heading off to explore other areas of eastern Germany.
Prora - From Ideological Monument to Seaside Resort
Nestled on the picturesque island of Rügen, Prora stands as a testament to the tumultuous history of 20th-century Germany. The colossal 4.5km-long structure, known as the Colossus of Prora, was conceived in the 1930s as a monumental beach resort, part of the Nazi regime's "Strength Through Joy" (Kraft durch Freude or KdF) programme. This ambitious project aimed to provide affordable leisure activities to the German working class, aligning them with the party's ideology. Construction began in 1936 but was abruptly halted by the onset of World War II in 1939. Our visit started on the northern (never completed) end, heading south past middle sections which are still being redeveloped (at the time of the visit), ending up on the southern end which has been tastefully redeveloped into both a modern and monumental building.
Above: Prora at its northernmost section. This part was never completed, due to the outbreak of World War II.
Post-war, Prora's narrative took various turns. Initially designed to house 20,000 holidaymakers, the buildings never served their intended purpose. Instead, they were repurposed for military use by successive regimes: the Soviet Army, East Germany's Volksarmee (National People's Army), and the German Bundeswehr (armed forces of the Federal Republic of Germany). It wasn't until after the reunification of Germany that Prora began to shed its ideological past and embrace a new identity.
Above: Heading south, some sections of the resort are currently still being redeveloped (as of September 2024).
Today, Prora stretches along the Baltic coast, a ribbon of buildings that have been transformed from a symbol of propaganda to a modern holiday destination. The resort greets visitors with its renovated façades, which have been converted into hotels and apartments. The resort maintains a balance between preserving historical architecture and offering contemporary comforts. The sandy beaches, once envisioned as a playground for the masses, now provide a serene backdrop for relaxation and recreation.
Above: Redeveloped holiday units, from the middle to the southern end of the resort.
Prora's attractions reflect its layered history. The Documentation Centre offers insights into the resort's past, while the interactive museums like the Wissens Museum and Galileo Wissenswelt Rügen engage visitors of all ages with scientific exhibits. For those seeking adventure, the Kletterwald BinzProra presents an aerial forest adventure park, and Puschis Strandbar offers a lively beach bar atmosphere. These attractions, alongside the natural beauty of Rügen, make Prora a unique blend of history, culture, and leisure.
Above: The expansive beach at Prora
Prora has evolved from an ideological project to a seaside resort that
caters to diverse interests. Its transformation is a reflection of
Germany's own journey through a complex past, offering a space where
history and holiday-making coexist. As Prora continues to develop, it
stands as a reminder of the power of reimagining spaces for new
purposes, inviting visitors to explore its rich tapestry of history and
enjoy the tranquil beauty of the Baltic Sea.
Some more photos from Prora can be seen in the thumbnail gallery below
(click on an image to enlarge):
Whilst visiting Prora, the author took some short videoclips and combined them into a short film that can be viewed here:
Cape Arkona
Also located on the island of Rügen, Cape Arkona is a destination steeped in natural beauty and historical significance. The cape itself is an approximately 150 foot (45m) high promontory, marking the tip of the Wittow peninsula and offering breathtaking views of the Baltic Sea. It is home to two lighthouses, a navigation tower, military bunker complexes, and the Slavic temple fortress of Jaromarsburg.
The journey to Cape Arkona began at the car park, where we took the option to board the Arkonabahn, a small train that provides a scenic route to the cape and the nearby fishing village of Vitt. This convenient mode of transportation allows guests to immerse themselves in the picturesque landscape without the strain of a long walk.
Above: The two lighthouses at Cape Arkona. The older Schinkel Tower is centre-right and the “new” larger lighthouse is to the left of it.
Upon arrival at Cape Arkona (and after a stop in a café there), we took a look at the two adjacent lighthouses, namely the Schinkel Tower, built in 1826/27, and the larger “new” lighthouse constructed in 1901/02. The latter was constructed as an electrically powered beacon, housing two carbon arc lamps mounted on a rotating table. For €3, it was possible to climb up the newer of the two lighthouses to take in views of the cape and beyond (views shown in the second thumbnail gallery towards the end of this webpage).
After visiting the lighthouses, a short walk took us to the old naval navigation tower (built in 1927), which now serves as an art museum and studio, offering a “cultural experience” within the historical building.
Above: The old naval navigation tower
Above: Jaromarsburg Slavic temple fortress. From the 9th to the 12th centuries, it was a cult site for the Rani, a Slavic tribe, which was dedicated to their god Svantevit. Located by the old naval navigation tower at the tip of the cape, it was protected on three sides by cliffs and from the land side by a high burgwall ("fort rampart"), seen here.
A scenic walk from Cape Arkona took us along the top of the sea cliffs to the charming fishing village of Vitt. Nestled in a coastal gully, Vitt is often described as "the most romantic place on Rügen," with its thatched-roof cottages and serene atmosphere. The village's origins can be traced back to the 10th century, and it has been a hub for fishing and trading throughout its history. Today, Vitt is a protected heritage site and a beloved tourist destination, known for its regional fish specialties and rustic restaurants.
Above: The historic village of Vitt
The return journey on foot to the car park included a visit to the Kapelle Vitt, a chapel situated above the village. This octagonal sanctuary was built in 1806, inspired by the shore sermons of pastor Ludwig Gotthard Kosegarten. The chapel's design, attributed to Karl Friedrich Schinkel, features six three-part pointed-arch windows and a wooden coffered ceiling, creating a bright and acoustically vibrant interior. The chapel is a popular site for weddings and offers a peaceful retreat for reflection and prayer.
Above: The Kapelle Vitt
Cape Arkona and its surrounding sights provide a unique blend of natural splendour, historical architecture, and cultural richness. Whether arriving by Arkonabahn, exploring the lighthouses, or strolling through Vitt, visitors are sure to find an unforgettable experience at this northern treasure of Rügen.
Above: Walking back to the car park from Vitt. The two lighthouses of Cape Arkona can be seen in the distance.
Some more photos from the visit to Cape Arkona can be seen in the thumbnail gallery below (click on an image to enlarge):
Previous Page (Peenemünde and Polish Border
on Baltic Sea)
Introduction and Wünsdorf
Berlin
Potsdam and Nietzsche-Haus, Naumburg
Colditz Castle and End Note to the Trip
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