Eastern Germany (inc. Berlin) 2024

(Page 2 of 7 / Links to other pages at end of this page)

Day 2 – Peenemünde and the Polish Border on the Baltic Sea

On day two, we visited Peenemünde on the island of Usedom. The extensive site here was used in World War II as the chief German research and testing facility for rockets and missiles (the “V-weapons”) which were eventually used against Britain during the Blitz. After spending a good 5 hours looking around the main site at Peenemünde, namely the Historical Technical Museum, a visit was made to the border with Poland on the Baltic coast, also located on the island of Usedom (a lagoon separates the island from the mainland). The latter location made for an excellent beach walk to reflect on all of the information that had been learnt whilst at the museum.

Above: An early morning ferry connecting Rügen Island (where we were staying) with the mainland. Although two bridges also connect Rügen to the mainland, the ferry offered the quickest route between our accommodation and Peenemünde.

Peenemünde

Peenemünde, a name etched in history, is a small village located on the Baltic Sea island of Usedom in northeastern Germany. Known by some for its picturesque landscapes where the Peene River meets the sea, Peenemünde harbours a past intertwined with groundbreaking technological advancements and wartime narratives. The first launch of a missile into space took place here in October 1942, with research directed towards one goal only – namely to achieve military superiority through advanced technology.

Above: Peenemünde Historical Technical Museum, located in the former power station of the army research centre – the large conveyor belt that was used to transport coal into the station is clearly visible in front of the main building as seen from this angle.

The village gained prominence during World War II as the site of the Peenemünde Army Research Centre, where the German Army Weapons Office developed several guided missiles and rockets, including the infamous V-2 rocket (for the reader wishing to learn more about V-weapons, known in original German as Vergeltungswaffen, an external link to the relevant Wikipedia page is given Here).

Above: A V1 flying bomb together with its launch ramp on display outside at the Historical Technical Museum.

The V-weapons developed here were a particular set of long-range artillery weapons designed as part of Hitler’s strategy to retaliate against the relentless Allied bombing of German cities and to instil fear and chaos among the civilian populations of the targeted areas. The V-1 flying bomb, also known as the “buzz bomb” or “doodlebug,” was launched from sites in German-occupied Europe, mainly targeting London and other cities in southern England. The V-1 flying bomb, the V-2 rocket, and the V-3 cannon were all originally intended to be used as part of a military campaign against Britain, but as the invasion of western Europe by the Allies was progressing, weapons were also employed against targets on the mainland of Europe, mainly in France and Belgium; the V-2 rocket was launched from mobile platforms in Germany and occupied territories, targeting cities like London, Antwerp, and Liège. Strategic bombing with V-weapons killed approximately 18,000 people, mostly civilians.

Above: A replica V2 rocket and an original old passenger train used to transport workers.

The development of V-weapons during World War II marked a significant advancement in military technology, particularly with the creation of the V-2 rocket, the world's first long-range guided ballistic missile. This innovation not only changed the landscape of warfare at the time but also laid the groundwork for future technological progress in various fields including aerospace engineering. This technological leap, however, came with its share of controversies due to the wartime implications and the use of forced labour for the construction of these weapons.

Above: A poignant display at the museum containing objects from concentration camps of forced labourers. Tens of thousands of slave labourers worked on the V-2 at no fewer than three separate sites, and died doing so. The Nazis’ slaves included Slavic prisoners of war, Jews and other “undesirables”. Consequently, the driving concepts in early space-exploration were, fundamentally, as a result of genocidal actions.

The site here was a known target for the Allies and the bombing of Peenemünde was a significant event during World War II, aimed at disrupting the German V-weapon programme. On the night of 17-18 August 1943, Operation Hydra was launched, marking the first time the Royal Air Force used a master bomber to direct the attack. This operation involved 596 heavy bombers and resulted in the dropping of nearly 1,800 tons of bombs on the facility, causing substantial damage and casualties. The raids were part of the larger Operation Crossbow, which targeted German secret weapon development throughout the war.

Above: Inside the Historical Technical Museum.

Today, Peenemünde seeks to reconcile its past by educating visitors through the Historical Technical Museum, located in the former power station of the army research centre and shown in the photographs in this section of this webpage. The museum, an anchor point on the European Route of Industrial Heritage, offers a sobering glimpse into the history of military technology and its consequences. Visitors here can explore a range of exhibits that delve into the technical details of the rockets and missiles developed at Peenemünde, the lives of the people who worked there, and the broader historical context of their creation. Notable sights include original remnants of the V-1 and V-2 rockets, which stand as a testament to the ingenuity and moral complexities of wartime innovation. Through interactive displays and historical artifacts, the museum educates on the dual nature of technological progress, highlighting the fine line between scientific achievement and its potential for destruction.
In addition temporary exhibitions, theatre, dance, music, art and literature events take place inside the former power station. The museum also arranges seminars, workshops and work camps designed to address matters relating to the future of technology, ecology, politics and ethics.
Some more photos from inside the Historical Technical Museum, including the power station building itself, as well as the exhibitions (accessed from a different entrance), can be seen in the thumbnail gallery below (click on an image to enlarge):

Whilst visiting the Historical Technical Museum in Peenemünde, the author took some short videoclips and combined them into a short film that can be viewed here:

Whilst the Historical Technical Museum may be considered the “main sight” at Peenemünde and it has a recommended visit duration of 3 hours (we spent a good 5 hours here), those who have more time on their hands (and depending on interest) may also wish to check out some of the other must-see spots in this historic village. These include Museumsschiff Hans Beimler (a museum ship providing a unique maritime perspective on history), Submarine Museum Peenemünde (showcasing the U-461, a relic of naval warfare, it offers an immersive experience into the life aboard a submarine), and/or Cämmerer See (a lake that presents a tranquil escape and a chance to observe local wildlife in their natural habitat). Whether you're a history aficionado or simply looking to enjoy the scenic views, Peenemünde has something to offer for everyone.

Above: Map showing location of Peenemünde Historical Technical Museum and location of Map 2 (see below). Original map source: © OpenStreetMap contributors.

German / Polish Border on the Baltic Sea

As mentioned near the top of this page, staying on the island of Usedom, we then took a drive up to the Polish border for a walk on the beach. Stopping at a car park just shy of the German-Polish border (the car was only insured for Germany) we then crossed into Poland on foot and took a route up to the beach as shown in map 2, below.

Above: Map showing route of walk described here. Original map source: © OpenStreetMap contributors.

The path to the beach eventually opened up to the serene expanse of the Baltic coast. Walking along the sand back to the border and then back inland, a boardwalk led to a gate-style monument marking the international border between the settlements of Ahlbeck and Świnoujście. The monument offered a poignant reminder of the past, as well as symbolising the peaceful coexistence of two nations. Usedom is more than an island; it's a testament to the beauty of exploration and the bridges we can build, even in the simplest of walks to the beach.

From here, we walked back to the car for a return to the accommodation, remaining on the Polish side for the best part, stopping off at a Biedronka supermarket for some provisions (Biedronka is the largest chain of discount shops in Poland) and taking a final look at the border crossing.

With the above in mind, on 16th June 2024, Germany introduced a temporary reintroduction of border controls with Poland, Switzerland, and the Czech Republic, and with France, Belgium, The Netherlands, Luxembourg and Denmark on 16th September 2024; such a measure began on the Austrian border on 12th May 2024. This walk took place on 9th September 2024 and so whilst a temporary reintroduction of border controls with Poland had already been implemented, there were no visible border guard activity. The remoteness of the location could be a factor, although passports were carried at all times during the walk, just on the off-chance there may have been random spot-checks taking place. Germany’s mixed-response decisions to bring back elements of border control (at the time of writing) included factors relating to security, irregular migration and migrant smuggling activities (more information Here (external link)). Some more photos from the walk are shown below:

Next Page (Rügen Island: Prora and Cape Arkona)

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Rostock
Berlin
Potsdam and Nietzsche-Haus, Naumburg
Colditz Castle and End Note to the Trip

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