Eastern Germany (inc. Berlin) 2024

(Page 1 of 7 / Links to other pages at end of this page)

Introduction

These webpages cover a 7-day/6-night trip to eastern Germany taken in September 2024. The author had been to Berlin itself before on two occasions, although these trips were in the 1990s in the days when film photography was the only option for taking pictures! Furthermore, at the time, German reunification was still in its early days and in anticipation of Berlin once again becoming the nation’s seat of its federal parliament, there was much building work taking place (including reconstruction of the Reichstag Building - the German Bundestag moved back here from Bonn in 1999). This trip gave an opportunity to see Berlin once again decades later, as well as seeing a number of other interesting places in this part of Germany.

Above: Checkpoint Charlie, the most famous crossing point between former East and West Berlin. Today, a very popular tourist site which has invariably led to the opening up of adjacent international fast-food outlets.

For this trip, flights were taken from the UK to Berlin Brandenburg Airport on a budget airline, local transport was mainly using a hire-car (the S- and U- Bahn in Berlin), and accommodation was booked online (different accommodations described in brief, where applicable). Day 1 was marked by a trip to Wünsdorf (see below) and travelling up to Rügen Island on the northern Baltic coast for 3 nights. This was followed by 2 nights in Berlin and then a final night near Colditz (approximately 100 miles as the crow flies SSW of Berlin).

The reader will note that a number of the sites visited on this trip are associated with World War II history and this is something reflected both in the modern history of the area and the personal interests of the author’s travel companions. Also, as a quick note for the reader who isn’t aware, some placenames mentioned on these pages contain the letter "ß". This is called an "eszett" or "sharp S" in German and is used to represent the sound of a double "s" in certain contexts.

 

Day 1 – Wünsdorf and the Accommodation on Rügen Island

Wünsdorf

After an early flight and hire-car pickup, prior to heading to our accommodation we spent the first day of this trip in Wünsdorf, approximately 25 miles (40km) south of the centre of Berlin.

Nestled in the heart of the State of Brandenburg, Wünsdorf is a place steeped in military history and shrouded in the enigma of its past. A visit here offers a unique glimpse into the military operations that shaped much of 20th-century Europe, from the rise of German militarism to the Cold War's secretive strategies.

Above: Haus Oskar bookshop (Zehrensdorfer Str. 12, 15806 Zossen), where it is possible to purchase tickets for the Wünsdorf bunker tour. Note that it is advised to book ahead during busy times.

After purchasing tickets for a guided bunker tour and time on our hands, our journey into history began at the Garnisonsmuseum (included in the ticket). The museum is a treasure trove of military artifacts and exhibitions that narrate the story of Wünsdorf from 1910 to 1945. Visitors can explore the "angled" air-raid shelters, known colloquially as "concrete cigars," and delve into the everyday lives of Russian soldiers stationed there from 1945 until their departure in 1994. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10:00 to 17:00, and it's advisable to allocate 1-2 hours for the visit. The photos that follow give an example of some of the exhibits that can be seen here:

It may be worth noting here that the museum contained little in the way of information in English (on a smartphone, the Google Translate app or Google Lens is handy for exhibit descriptions) and that prior to joining a guided bunker tour (also not in English), the ticket office has QR codes which can be scanned with a smartphone to download an app and obtain a Wi-Fi code to listen to information in English whilst being taken around the site. The temperature within the bunkers remains a constant 10 degrees Celsius year-round, so visitors are reminded to bring a jacket regardless of the season.

After absorbing the rich history at the Garnisonsmuseum, the adventure continued underground with the guided tour of the bunkers. These tours offer an unparalleled opportunity to walk through the same corridors where German and Soviet military strategies were once deliberated. The bunker complexes, including Maybach I and Zeppelin, are significant remnants of the High Command of the German Army. The guided tours provide a profound understanding of the military significance of Wünsdorf.

The Wünsdorf bunkers, a remnant of Germany's turbulent military history, have served as a silent witness to the strategic operations of two world wars and the Cold War. They began their historical significance around 1910, initially serving as a military base under Emperor William II. The escalation of military developments saw the construction of the "Maybach I and II" bunkers and the "Zeppelin" news centre in the late 1930s, which became the nerve centre for the High Command of the National Socialist Unified Armed Forces. It was here that Operation Barbarossa, the code name for the invasion of the Soviet Union, was meticulously planned.

Above: Maybach bunkers were designed to look like local housing from the air.

Post World War II, the bunkers' purpose shifted as they were adapted by the Soviet forces, marking the beginning of a new era in their history. The Soviet 16th Air Force headquartered in the UK20 bunker, and the Zeppelin bunker, originally a Wehrmacht (unified armed forces of Nazi Germany) communications hub, received upgrades for NBC (nuclear, biological, chemical) protection. The fall of the Berlin Wall and the subsequent reunification of Germany led to the withdrawal of Soviet forces, leaving behind a ghost town. Since the late 1990s, Wünsdorf has transformed, now offering the guided tours and exhibitions that narrate the life of Soviet soldiers and the history of this military site. More photos from the bunker tour are shown in the thumbnail gallery below (click on an image to enlarge):

The Wünsdorf bunkers stand today not only as a historical site but also as a testament to the changing tides of military strategy and the impact of global conflicts on local landscapes. For history enthusiasts and the curious alike, they offer a tangible connection to the past and a stark reminder of the realities of war. Wünsdorf's Garnisonsmuseum and bunker tours are sure to leave a lasting impression.

Above: Monument to the glorious cosmonaut, Wünsdorf

Whilst visiting the bunkers in Wünsdorf, the author took some short videoclips and combined them into a short film that can be viewed here:

 

Accommodation on Rügen Island

After visiting Wünsdorf and in anticipation of our planned itinerary for the following days, we then drove some 200 miles northwards to our accommodation on Rügen Island.

Above: one of the many windfarms seen enroute whilst travelling through eastern Germany.

A popular tourist destination for Germans, Rügen is the country’s largest island. It is located off the Pomeranian coast in the Baltic Sea. Depending on the route planned, the island can be accessed either by a short car ferry or over one of two adjacent bridges (a newer cable-stayed bridge or the older bridge and causeway); if taking the ferry, it is worth checking the times as despite Google Maps directing us there, on arrival we discovered that it had stopped running for the day and had to take the older bridge crossing anyway. Our accommodation for the next three nights (Apartment Feriengut Poppelvitz / Garz) was spacious enough and included shower/toilet, two bedrooms, and a large living area with sofa bed, dining table and kitchenette:

Next Page (Peenemünde and Polish Border on Baltic Sea)

Rügen Island: Prora and Cape Arkona
Rostock
Berlin
Potsdam and Nietzsche-Haus, Naumburg
Colditz Castle and End Note to the Trip

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