(Page 4 of 5 / Links to other pages at end of this page)
Day 4 – Capri
For visiting the island of Capri, a full day was set aside, taking a ferry as foot-passengers from the port at Sorrento to the port of Marina Grande on the northern side of the island. Once there, and with the time available, it was decided to first take a circular boat trip around the island to see its spectacular coastline (on the boat Capri Bell, with Laser Capri Boat Tours), and after lunch back in Marina Grande, take a trip up to the highest point on the island (Monte Solaro), known for its stunning views.
It may be worth noting, that the author of this webpage made a visit to Capri back in September 1992 and found it unbearably hot and too overcrowded. However, with this visit taking place in March, it was time to take another look at the island whilst keeping an open and fresh mind. Apart from the relatively (but expected) high prices, this visit was far from disappointing.
Capri: A Mediterranean Gem
Nestled in the Tyrrhenian Sea and basking in the glory of the Gulf of Naples, the Island of Capri has captivated visitors for centuries with its blend of natural beauty, history, and culture. Capri's rugged landscape is a tapestry of limestone and sandstone, with cliffs that soar majestically from the azure waters, creating a dramatic coastline that has become the hallmark of this island paradise.
The island's history is as rich as its vistas. Once a favoured resort during the Roman Republic, Capri still bears the architectural footprints of its illustrious past. The ruins of Villa Jovis, the grand abode of Emperor Tiberius, stand as a testament to the island's regal heritage. The Blue Grotto, with its ethereal light and crystal-clear waters, continues to be a siren call for those seeking the wonders of nature. Capri's two towns, Capri and Anacapri, offer distinct experiences. Capri town, with its chic boutiques and vibrant square, is the heartbeat of the island. Anacapri, perched higher in the hills, provides a serene escape with stunning views and quieter streets. Both towns are connected not only by roads but by the shared charm that is inherently Caprese.
Whether it's the allure of the Marina Piccola, the grandeur of Monte Solaro, or the iconic Faraglioni rocks, Capri is a mosaic of experiences waiting to be discovered. It's no wonder that literary greats like Charles Dickens have found inspiration in its serene beauty, and today's travellers continue to find their own slice of heaven on this idyllic isle.
Boat Trip Around the Island
A boat tour around the enchanting island of Capri is a journey through a landscape rich with natural beauty and historical significance.
Departing from the bustling Marina Grande, the main port of Capri, the boat soon passes Gennarino Scugnizzo (also called the Statue of Welcome), a bronze statue perched on a boulder called Lo Capo, at the eastern end of the island. The statue depicts a young Neapolitan boy, known as a 'scugnizzo' or street urchin, who greets visitors with a wave. It's become a tradition for tourists and locals alike to wave back to Gennarino for good luck as they pass by boat:
The first natural landmark on the boat tour featured here is the serene Grotta Bianca (the White Grotto), a sea cave adorned with white stalactites and named for the white incrustations on its walls:
The next highlight is the Faraglioni rocks, three spurs of rock which rise up out of the sea, close to the island's Southern coast. Each of the three have names: the first, still attached to the land, is “Stella”, the second, separated from the first block by a stretch of sea is named “Faraglione di Mezzo”, and the third is known as “Faraglione di Fuori” or “Scopolo”. Faraglione di Mezzo (which is also the smallest of the three) is known for the Arco Naturale, a natural limestone arch that stands as a testament to the island's geological history. This impressive formation was created by the erosion of a grotto and offers a unique frame to the azure waters below. It is large enough for the tour boat that we were on to pass right through:
Continuing along the rugged southern side of the island, the tour then passes the charming Marina Piccola. This resort town is known for its beach areas and cosy bars and cafés surrounding Piazzetta di Capri. Restaurant terraces in the resort have views of the Faraglioni rock formations, whilst another popular thing to do is to head along Via Krupp from here to Giardini di Augusto, a picturesque botanical garden with views of the sea.
Next on the tour can be seen another highlight - the Grotta Verde, known for its vivid green waters. The colour is a result of sunlight filtering through the seawater and reflecting off the cave walls, creating an otherworldly glow:
As the boat round the southwestern tip of the island, it reaches Punta Carena and its majestic lighthouse, which has been guiding sailors since 1867:
The final and perhaps most anticipated stop is the Grotta Azzurra, or Blue Grotto. This magical sea cave is illuminated by a brilliant blue light, creating an ethereal atmosphere that has captivated visitors for centuries. As a point of note here, safe access to the inside of the Blue Grotto is possible only during low tides and calm seas. We were sold the ticket for the circular boat tour with information that it was good conditions to see inside, alas it wasn’t possible when we arrived. For those able to see inside, arriving at the Blue Grotto, there are other smaller boats waiting in line to enter. Visitors must transfer on to these small four-person rowboats (for an extra fee paid locally) and lie flat. The oarsman uses a metal chain attached to the cave walls to guide the boat inside. Once inside the 60m long and 25m wide grotto, visitors are not allowed to exit the row boats for swimming. The entrance to the Blue Grotto may be seen in the photographs below:
Returning to Marina Grande, guests carry with them memories of Capri's stunning sights, each a unique chapter in the island's storied past.
This short voyage encapsulates the essence of Capri, blending the island's natural wonders with its rich tapestry of history, leaving an indelible impression of one of Italy's most treasured destinations.
Lunch at Marina Grande
Back in Marina Grande on the northern side of the island, it was time to stretch the legs back on terra firma, and look for a bite to eat. Marina Grande itself is a bustling port where virtually all visitors to Capri land upon arrival.
Once a quiet fishing village with colourful houses and nets hung up to dry, it has transformed into a crossroads for tourists, commuters, locals, and others passing through or coming to stay. Consequently, here may be found essential services such as a minimarket, pharmacy, newsstand, cafés, restaurants, shops, and (of course) the obligatory souvenir shops and stalls.
There are some hotels and B&Bs here too, although most tourists staying on the island prefer accommodations closer to the centre of Capri or in the quieter town of Anacapri. Being the main port of arrival and departure, Marina Grande is well-connected to other locations on the island.
Monte Solaro: The Pinnacle of Capri's Beauty
Perched atop the island of Capri, Monte Solaro stands as the highest point, offering breathtaking panoramic views that have enchanted visitors for centuries. Rising 1,932 feet (589m) above sea level, this majestic mountain provides a vantage point like no other, overlooking the vast expanse of the Bay of Naples, the Amalfi Coast, and even the distant mountains of Calabria on clear days.
The journey to the summit of Monte Solaro on this visit first involved taking a bus from Marina Grande to Piazza Vittoria in the town of Anacapri (it may be worth noting that although the impressive Capri funicular (Funicolare di Capri) also heads uphill from Marina Grande, it terminates elsewhere on the island at the Piazza Umberto I in the centre of the island and, in any instance, was not in service on the day of this visit). From the bus stop at Piazza Vittoria in Anacapri, a short walk leads to a chairlift station. The chairlift, which runs to the top of Monte Solaro, is a single-seater affair, and maybe not for the feint-hearted or those with a fear of heights. It operates at various times throughout the year and children under 7 can enjoy the ride for free on their parent's lap. For those who prefer a more active approach, it is also possible to hike to the top of Monte Solaro.
The mountain is often referred to as the "Acchiappanuvole" or "cloud
catcher," a name that comes to life especially at dawn or dusk when the
thermal differences create a mesmerizing dance of fog and clouds around
the summit. This natural spectacle adds a touch of mystique to the
already stunning landscape.
Monte Solaro's flora and fauna are as diverse as its views. The mountain
is home to over 900 species of vegetation, with different plants
thriving at various altitudes. It's also a haven for birdwatchers, with
species like the peregrine falcon gracing the skies. For history
enthusiasts, the mountain holds remnants of the past, such as the
Fortino di Bruto, a blockhouse used during the early 19th-century
battles between Britain and France. A statue of Emperor Augustus, who
first landed on Capri, is also found here, adding a historical dimension
to the natural splendour. Whether you're a nature lover, a history buff,
or simply in search of some of the most stunning views in the world,
Monte Solaro is a must-visit destination on the island of Capri.
After descending the chairlift back down to Anacapri, there was plenty of time to walk, rather than take the bus back down to Marina Grande before waiting to depart on the ferry back to Sorrento. Linking the hill town of Anacapri to the port is a footpath containing no less than 921 stone steps carved out of the side of the mountain. The route is known as the Phoenician Steps (Scala Fenicia). This gigantic staircase is believed to have been constructed by Greek settlers during the 5th-4th century BC, likely on a path that existed even earlier. The name 'Scala Fenicia' is somewhat of a misnomer, as there is no definitive evidence that the Phoenicians built these steps. However, the staircase is a testament to the island's long history of maritime trade and cultural exchange. The route offers stunning views of Capri and the surrounding sea:
For those planning a visit themselves, Capri promises an unforgettable journey through time, nature, and the essence of Mediterranean splendour. From boat tours that reveal the island's secrets to leisurely strolls through its historic paths, Capri is not just a destination; it's an experience that stays with you long after you've departed its shores.
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National Archaeological Museum of Naples
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Sorrento
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